Albatross and blue cod

Kaikoura really is a very special place, and to be honest is probably one of my favourite places in the country.  We were up and headed out towards the Seal Colony on the Peninsula, where we wanted to check for cirl bunting and wandering tattler, but also get a good look at NZ fur seal again and check for shorebirds along the shore.  The light was gorgeous on the seaward Kaikouras, with a stunning clear blue sky.  There were a few seals on the rocks near the main carpark, and we found a good number of ruddy turnstone, variable oystercatcher, and several banded dotterel, but no wandering tattler.  There were a lot of yellowhammers along the roadside, but no characteristic cirl bunting song.  Heading slowly back along the road towards town we made a few stops, and found bellbird and starling alike feeding on flax flowers, but still no bunting.

Nevermind, it was time to check in for the Albatross Encounter trip, and we then hopped across the peninsula to South Bay to get onboard the board.  We had Gary as skipper, one of the best in the business, and we headed out on a relatively glassy sea, but still a bit of northerly roll.  Not far out we came across a huge raft of several thousand Hutton’s shearwater which were feeding and gave excellent views.  These birds can often be a little difficult to get close to, but Gary expertly got the boat into place for some great views.  We then carried on out into deeper water (you don’t have to go far!), and saw a fishing boat near where we wanted to be so headed for that.  With such light winds the best thing to do was to find where the birds were and start there.  The fishing boat had a few birds around it, and within seconds we had several massive New Zealand wandering albatross right beside the boat, with Westland petrel, Salvin’s albatross, and Northern giant petrel coming in, plus good numbers of Cape petrels.  The birds are so close at this spot that it is just hard to describe, but having several birds with wing spans just over 3m around the back of the boat is an awesome experience.

We then decided to head out into slightly deeper water to see if we could find some of the other suspects.  Ranging over several different spots and providing chum (fish livers) at each we were able to add Northern Royal albatross, white-capped albatross, Buller’s shearwater, and white-chinned petrel to the list.  The wind was so light that it didn’t bring in clouds of birds, but we had all the species we could have expected, and had fantastic views of them.  We decided to check out one last spot in closer to the shore, in the hope that the Antarctic fulmar Gary had seen yesterday would be hanging around, but unfortunately we were not able to find it.  We did however encounter a massive pod of dusky dolphins, with a lot of mothers and relatively new calves.  We were running out of time and headed along the shoreline back towards base, keeping an eye out for Hector’s dolphins, but no luck.

We arrived back into port and then had a great lunch at the Encounter Cafe – great food thanks guys!  After lunch it was free time, an opportunity to take a break, check email, get some washing done, etc.  Several chose to walk the Peninsula Walkway, and I managed to catch up with good friends Jo and Alex.

Fish and chips were the order of the day for dinner, with lovely blue cod being the fish.  From the sounds of it this was some of the best fish these guys have ever had, and so sound’s like Hine’s did a fantastic job.  We then headed out for another search for little owl, but came up with bare posts and song thrushes...oh well!

A beaut morning on the Kaikoura Peninsula

A New Zealand wandering albatross comes in towards the boat

Looking out to sea at the Seal Colony

A raft of Hutton's shearwaters seen from the pelagic

Hutton's shearwaters in flight

Two New Zealand wandering albatrosses get acquainted

North giant petrel cruising past for a look

Westland petrel on the wing

Bird of the day –
Wandering albatross x2, Northern Royal albatross x1, Hutton’s shearwater x1,Banded dotterel chick x2

Day total –
Seen = 43 + 1 heard (grey warbler); new for the trip = 4; total for the trip to date = 140

The King of Shags!

A late start this morning to head out on the Dolphin Watch Ecotours trip out onto Queen Charlotte Sound.  It was a little cloudy to start with, but I knew that wouldn’t last long, and sure enough within an hour or so there was a beaut blue sky.

Our skipper Joe pretty quickly directed the boat towards the first little penguins of the day, and we then had excellent views of more and more of these little guys with fluttering shearwaters as we headed out.  Before too long an Arctic skua flew past the boat, a dark morph and probably the same bird I had seen in close to Picton on the ferry yesterday evening.  Off to a good start.  We headed to a couple of the usual spots for King shag, including past the point I had seen one in the water from the ferry, but nothing, until a little while later an immature bird flew past us in the opposite direction.  We had brief views and decided to head out further, past Tory Channel and out towards Motuara Island.  A quick stop for some spotted shags on a roost, and fur seals nearby, and we then headed onwards, until we got to a spot I had seen King shag before, and sure enough there was a group of about 25, with a couple of really stonking birds in breeding dress, with the yellow caruncle and blue eye.  Nice.  We had excellent views of these birds, with them being rather settled at this site.

We then headed out again trying to search for some Hector’s dolphins – one of the smallest of the dolphins and endemic to NZ.  We all scanned as we slowly motored along, but not much to be seen.  I managed to spot a dorsal and Joe headed towards it, but this was obviously not an animal in a playful mood and we failed to refind it.  Carrying on slowly we kept scanning, but didn’t manage to find our dolphin.  We headed across to Ship Cove – a place famous due to the fact the Capt James Cook spent a lot of time here on several of his voyages.  Weka were there to greet us in their usual curious manner and we had great views of them, a brief pitstop, and then across to Motuara Island.

We headed straight up to the pool and within seconds had a pair of South Island saddlebacks right in front of us, drinking, bathing and preening.  Awesome, wish it was always that easy.  We also had great views of bellbird, yellow-crowned parakeet, and South Island robin.  We decided that having had great views of the birds, our time was best spent on the water again looking for dolphins, with not only Hector’s possible, but dusky and bottle-nose also possible.  A quick cuppa and scone on the run and we soon had a big pod of bottle-nose dolphins passing us on either side of the boat, heading out towards the open sea.  Many of them passed us really close, porpoising as they went right up out of the water, showing just how big some of the individuals were.  Not bad at all!

We then gradually headed back towards Picton, seeing a couple of King shags in the water, on the way, as well as more spotted and pied shags, white-fronted terns, gannets, fluttering shears and another Arctic skua.  Back at Picton we headed straight for the Village Bakery to see if anything was left for lunch, and thankfully we were in luck.  It is a pretty popular stop so you can’t get there too late!  Then it was a short drive to Renwick to the home of the long staying black kite.  Although most of us had seen this species before, it was a lifer for one, and so worth checking...not to mention another one towards beating Sav’s record of 165!  We arrived and had our lunch and waited, a cup of tea, and waited, another cup of tea, but nothing.  So after half an hour I decided we should head off, but went down the road about 2 kms to turn around.  We pulled up, did a brief scan and spotted a harrier over the ridgeline, and then watched as another bird suddenly appeared into my view – the kite!  We had great views of this bird, even getting the scope onto it and had excellent comparisons with the accompanying harrier.  Unfortunately, no falcon like the last time I was here, with 3 species of raptor in view at once...now that doesn’t happen in NZ very often, if at all before!

So pretty happy we headed through Blenheim to Hardings Road and the Blenheim sewage ponds (number three on the tour – what would a birding tour be without sewage ponds!).  No glossy ibis on the road in, but we had a good look over the ponds, checking amongst the Royal spoonbills.  Lots of birds on the ponds, including probably almost 200 Royal spoonbill, some of them nesting in the Ngaio shrubs on the islands.  There were quite large chicks visible in some, begging for food, so nice to see this.  Lots of grey teal, shoveler, black swan, etc.  But, no glossy ibis.

We continued south and stopped at Lake Grassmere to see what we could find.  There was a single banded dotterel and two wrybill, which we got nice views of again, as well as six red-necked stint.  Amongst them was the bird reported as a possible little stint on birdingnz.net recently.  However, although the plumage is very unusual, the bird was a red-necked stint in all other ways – shape, size, jizz.  I think in the end it just has to be a red-necked stint in strange plumage – perhaps an old breeder that has moulted the throat, but still has a pronounced breast-band.

We carried on south to Ohau Point, stopping for the spotted shag colony and NZ fur seals, getting good views of both of these.  The spotted shags had young in the nest, ranging from fairly small chicks to almost ready to fledge.

We checked into the accommodation in Kaikoura, had a bit of a break then dinner, and then headed out to look for little owl...however, nothing stirring tonight.  It’s albatross day tomorrow...can’t wait!


Bird of the day –
Spotted shag x2, King shag x2, South Island saddleback x1, black kite x1

Day total – Seen = 53 + 3 heard (dunnock, grey warbler, common redpoll); new for the trip = 4; total for the trip to date = 136

North to South

This morning we started with a visit to the Manawatu Estuary.  This place is completely unbiasedly known as THE best wader site in the country (of course that is Sav’s opinion!).  The tide was lowish, so most of the birds were spread out over the mudflats, with good numbers of bar-tailed godwit and red knot, a few scattered wrybill and 11 Pacific golden plover.  Amongst other things we spent some time searching for the now long-staying glossy ibis pair (no luck) and the little tern seen by Sav earlier in the week (nope!).  Nevermind, the weather was good and there was more than enough to look at.

We then headed slowly down the coast towards Wellington, with a brief stop at Waitarere Beach (no wandering tattler present – looks like the luck was wearing off!).  However, at Lake Horowhenua we found the two cattle egret in stonking breeding plumage looking very smart.  A quick check of the lake itself revealed no noteworthy waterfowl, although there was plenty of grey teal, shoveler, and cormorants.

We then grabbed some lunch at Otaki and ate it beside the Otaki Sewage ponds.  Again good numbers of waterfowl including at least 8 dabchick with some very close views, and a lot of grey teal, shoveler, etc.  Just as well we had made the effort to see black-fronted dotterel near Napier as there was quite surprisingly none on the ponds.

We checked in to the ferry just on 1pm, after a brief stop at the Paekakariki Steam Engine Museum where Malcolm and John were like kids in a candy shop!  The ferry crossing was windy, but seas calm and we had a few birds come past, with several white-capped and a Salvin’s albatross, moderate numbers of Westland petrels, a few flesh-footed and sooty shearwaters, and fairy prions.  In the sounds we managed a King shag from the ferry (which is not usually managed) and had a few spotted shags, and two Arctic skua amongst the usual suspects.  A nice crossing and the weather looks good again for tomorrow.

Bird of the day – ‘Whistling petrel’ x2 (Ruth oh Ruth...),Westland petrel x1, Cattle egret x2, Steam engine 482 wheel arrangement x1 (this is turning into a circus!)

Day total –
Seen = 61 + 3 heard (grey fantail, grey warbler, common redpoll); new for the trip = 4; total for the trip to date = 132

Blue ducks and sunshine

A brisk morning in Turangi, but a beaut blue sky promising to be another warm and fine day.  We headed off towards the Kaimanawa Forest Park to check out a spot for blue duck, and other forest species.  There were no blue duck at the usual spots, but we had great views of common redpoll, tomtit, silvereye, and a bunch of other common things.  A bit further along we finally heard a long-tailed cuckoo and managed to see it land in a tree nearby.  I got it in the scope, but it was partially obscured, finally giving reasonable views to all.  Tried to get a better angle on it, and as per usual just as I refound it it dropped down out of the tree and out of sight – ha!  We gave it a bit longer, but then decided to quit while we were ahead and headed onwards to our main stop for the day – Ruatiti.

We pretty much just headed straight for the domain, except with a brief stop on the bridge to check up and downstream.  No ducks showing but scope views of shining bronze cuckoo, with multiple birds around.  There were a lot of these birds calling at just about every stop today – so they are in full swing...watch out grey warblers!

At the domain we pulled up beside the picnic area, and before we had even stopped moving a pair of blue duck were in sight.  Perched on rocks just down from the picnic tables, these birds gave brilliant views as always, and we soon had them in the scope as they preened, and then jumped in and out of the rapids and onto rocks whilst feeding.  They really are beaut birds, and the atmosphere at this place is just magic – a really scenic stop.  We had lunch at the domain, enjoyed the sun, and just generally relaxed.  Discussing our options for the afternoon, we decided on getting to the accommodation as early as possible, but with a stop for sulphur-crested cockatoo on the way.

So we headed off back up the road, managing to see several more pairs of blue duck along the way, and even a family party of mum, dad, and the four kids!  Great, 11 blue duck without too much effort.  Unfortunately, it sounds like the breeding season has not been a good one for them here, as the wet spring has meant floods have wiped out some of the earlier breeding attempts.  Still, there is time for some second attempts.

We carried on through Taihape, and then to the Pohangina Valley to try our luck with the cockatoos.  After about 10 minutes (and more shining bronze cuckoo!) we had a pair of cockatoos fly over, and shortly after great views of three of them, with a pair perched and in the scope.

Heading into Feilding we checked in slightly earlier than normal before meeting with Sav and heading for dinner.  The crème brulee was a 7 out of 10, but it took a lot longer than it should and the drive to the rufous night-heron spot near Wanganui got us there a little later than desired.  No sign of any night-herons, but a morepork was a consolation prize.  A long but good day...checklist update tomorrow!

Stars of the day - blue duck

The picnic spot, being used appropriately

Blue duck heaven

Bird of the day – Blue duck x4, long-tailed cuckoo x1, sulphur-crested cockatoo x1

Day total –
Seen =41 + 1 heard (NI robin); new for the trip = 3; total for the trip to date = 128

Falcons are us!

This morning we headed east towards Hawkes Bay, and with a few spots of rain it looked like it might be a bit drizzly up at Boundary Stream.  Or at least that was the impression, until this tinny lot stepped out of the vehicle and the cloud gradually started to thin and the sun come out!  Someone has been doing the right dance in the morning!  On the way in a long-tailed cuckoo had zipped across the road in front of us, giving a quick glimpse...definitely BVD (better views desired).

Within a few minutes Ruth had spotted a kokako, and we were then treated to stonking views of the male sitting in the open singing, whilst the female collected tree fern scales and other fine material to line her nest.  Wow!  We headed along one of the tracks, but there was not a sound from a long-tailed cuckoo, the bird I really wanted to get here.  We quickly started to see the other more common forest species – whitehead, robin, bellbird, tui, and pigeon – as well as flitting rifleman and heard the odd tomtit.  And then we heard it – a calling long-tailed cuckoo.  It was a we way away, but from a vantage point we could see out towards where it was.  Then another called.  After 20-odd minutes we had managed fleeting glimpses of the bird flying rapidly, but nothing substantial...this was going to be a test.  We heard a flying falcon at one point also, but it too did not show.  The cuckoos then seemed to shut-up completely, so we carried on.  A bit further along we suddenly heard the familiar call of NZ falcon, and I quickly searched the nearby trees, but couldn’t find it until a few seconds later it flew.  Circling, the female then came back and perched right above us, with 20m and sat there preening and looking out over her domain.  The male was clearly nearby, but out of sight, but for 15 minutes or more we watched her through the scope – it really doesn’t get any better than this!  After a while she flew off and circled calling and the male joined her.  The male did several VERY low passes over our heads, clearly indicating they were nesting, so we decided to get out of their way and leave them too it.  What an awesome experience to have a pair of falcon just metres from you, being able to watch them fly at such close quarters and run around in the trees...amazing to see them running up branches and hopping around.

We carried on, seeing rifleman, more whitehead, robins, and several tomtits, plus a lot of shining bronze cuckoo calling, and then headed back to the carpark.  We drove a few minutes down the road to have lunch and stopped at a spot I thought the long-tailed cuckoo had been calling near, which gave us a great view over the forest.  Nothing...damn!  So I was coerced into trying my best cuckoo impersonation...still nothing...double damn!!  Except an immature falcon suddenly appeared, sitting in a big snag for quite some time and again allowing scope views.  About five minutes later all hell broke loose, with a long-tailed cuckoo flying out over us calling loudly with a tui hot on it’s tail!  Most got a good view of it before it looped round and went back into the trees.  Better than nothing, but still couldn’t find it perched despite the odd call coming from the general direction.  Another short wait and the bird then flew out over our heads and round in another big loop before disappearing again...I think that was going to be it.  We waited a bit longer, but the bird stopped calling and didn’t show itself again, so we decided to quit while we were ahead.

We decided the afternoon should be spent on a mad twitch, and so headed down towards Napier.  On the way we added rook to the list, with several birds flying over paddocks, and swinging past Lake Tutira we saw little black shag, and a few waterfowl.  We headed straight for the Ahuriri Estuary where within seconds I had the long-staying grey-tailed tattler in the scope, as well as 15 Pacific golden plover and a few godwit.  Love it when a plan comes together.  Over on the Westshore lagoon we had beaut views of stunning breeding plumage Royal spoonbill, with big shaggy crests and lovely saffron colouration to the breast.  Barbara thought they looked like they need a haircut, especially when the wind blew their ‘hair’ back over their faces.  Out on the scrapes we had cracking views of black-fronted and banded dotterel which seemed to fly in and land in front of us on que.  Black-fronted dot in mint plumage really is a stunning little thing!

We checked to see if anything else was around and then slowly headed back towards Taupo, with a coffee stop on the way.  The mountains were visible with nice light at the end of the lake, so a quick photo stop and then on to Turangi.  We stopped in near the southern shore of Lake Taupo and had nice views of a pair of fernbird within a few metres, crawling around in the undergrowth like little mice and showing well in branches of the kanuka and other shrubs.  Another good day!

PS.  Been trying to make a movie of some of the footage of the falcons I got today, but Windows Live Movie Player keeps crashing when saving...typical!

The star of the day - NZ falcon!

The happy crew - we may not have seen a kiwi, but boy did we see falcons!

Bird of the day – NZ falcon x3, black-fronted dotterel x2, fernbird x1

Day total – Seen = 58 + 5 heard (pheasant, Indian peafowl, shining bronze cuckoo, morepork, dunnock); new for the trip = 6; total for the trip to date = 125