Day five - stonking wrybill

We were up early, still with kiwi fresh in our minds.  The night had been short, and creatures of the night grunted and snuffled nearby… (ahem!).  We breakfasted, cleaned the bunkhouse a bit, and then packed and headed out.  Our aim was to try and get better views of kokako as they had been giving us the run around.  We head on down towards the wharf, and made a few stops along the way, and then found the location we had heard and glimpsed the pair yesterday.  We sat and waited, and waited.  Good numbers of other birds and activity around us – with great views of male Stitchbird, bellbird, red-crowned parakeet, tui, pigeon, etc – but where was the target?!  Finally, after about 1.25 hours a bird showed.  It was glimpsed again and then showed itself reasonably well, but kept moving, making it a hard target for some.  It then seemed to drop to the ground, stopped calling, and completely disappeared!  Never to be seen again, damn!

With time running out we had to head down to the wharf and then found out our water taxi was going to be late due to the fairly strong winds coming from the SW. The ferry made it however, and after a little fancy footwork we were on the ferry back to Gulf Harbour, and had cancelled the water taxi.  It would have been a pretty bumpy and unpleasant ride back in the water taxi, and was much more comfortable on the ferry.

We packed the bags back into the van back at Gulf Harbour, fuelled and grabbed some lunch at a nearby petrol station, and then drove to an estuary area where we sat and had lunch looking out at ducks, cormorants and shorebirds! Excellent.  Our first grey teal of the trip, and another couple of dabchick, paradise shelducks….and then WRYBILL!  Distant out on the mudflats, but there they were in all their splendour! We decided the light was not great and they were distant, and had a good plan for the afternoon.  So off we headed towards Miranda.

We arrived to our accommodation early afternoon, checked in, waited out the heat of the day and freshened up, and then headed out to Miranda in the late afternoon.  Perfect timing with the tide, and it was starting to cool a little.  In front of the hides we had several thousand bar-tailed godwit, and also a good thousand or more South Island oystercatchers. Some of the bar-tailed godwit were in absolutely cracking breeding plumage – a sign that they will soon be departing our shores for more northern climes!  We switched locations and found a large flock of several hundred wrybill and set about searching through them and the nearby red knot flock also.  A number of Pacific golden plovers were found, and then a couple of other small shorebirds.  First off a red-necked stint, then what was thought to be a curlew sandpiper – except it was hard to confirm when roosting sitting and with beak tucked in!  It was confirmed later though, and then a grey-tailed tattler was found also – a rather rare vagrant to these parts.  We had good looks at the wrybill and watched them moving with the wind and whatever else was stirring them.  A great time to stand and scan with binoculars and scopes.

As the evening drew on we decided to move on, and just as we did the birds got up and flew around a bit.  Lovely to see big flocks of birds in the sky.  We headed off for dinner at a local fish and chip shop – beautiful fresh fish and a couple of drinks with dinner!  Now for a restful night.

Bird of the day– Kokako x1, Stitchbird x5, wrybill x2

Checking out the roosting shorebirds

Day four - gotta love Tiri

We were up early, and packing for our overnight on Tiritiri Matangi.  We packed the van and then headed to grab some lunch, before heading to Gulf Harbour.  We spotted a reef egret fly in and land on the rock wall, and then organised our gear, before a last check of shoes, etc.  The ferry arrived, we loaded our gear onboard and off we headed.

The sea was fairly calm and although there was a light breeze, conditions were good. We saw a small raft of fluttering shearwaters along the way, and then a single Buller’s shearwater, and a lone Parasitic jaeger, so fairly quiet.  On the wharf at Tiritiri Matangi we loaded our gear onto the trolley and then headed for the ranger briefing.  There were two short-tailed rays in the sand on the side of the wharf as we walked there, and the bird song was already started to fall upon our ears.  After the briefing we headed up into the forest, with red-crowned parakeet seen well as we walked up the hill, and then of course tui, bellbird, fantail, whitehead, and saddleback.  Next was a confiding North Island robin – the first of many.

Carrying on up the trail we had ears peeled for other needed birds, but there were quite a few school groups being guided around the place, so we tried to avoid them as much as we could.  Great to see our young New Zealanders being shown how amazing a conservation effort like Tiritiri can be though.  We had stitchbirds and bellbirds around one of the feeders and so enjoyed them for a bit, and then heard some snippets of kokako song.  We persisted with kokako for about 45 minutes, getting glimpses of two birds through the foliage and in the distance, but pretty difficult to see. Listening to the song was rather pleasant though.

We then carried on up the hill, seeing brown quail, more saddleback and stitchbird, as well as pigeon nice and close, and a lot of tui and bellbird.  We carried on to the bunkhouse, and then had a briefing, before having lunch and a bit of a rest.

We then headed out to walk the trails and in search of takaha – bingo, that was easy – and kokako, as well as anything else we could find.  We wandered trails and managed to see another kokako briefly as it flew through forest near to us, pausing a couple of times, but again not playing the game!  Stitchbirds were more cooperative, and then at a small pond we had two very cooperative juvenile spotless crakes, feeding on the edge of the pond in plain sight. Much easier to see than the glimpse of one running through the forest earlier!  We also then had views of another couple of adults, but not such good views – but thankfully today it wasn’t a crake-less spot!

Heading back towards the bunkhouse we had another singing kokako, but just couldn’t see it in through the foliage – frustrating, but that is birding.  We did have great views of a female great eggfly or blue moon butterfly which was pretty cool!  Back at the bunkhouse preparations for dinner got underway, whilst cheese and crackers were demolished, and BBQ lamb chops and beautiful steak, freshly tossed salads and boiled potatoes with butter were washed down with beer and wine!  After a quick bit of chocolate for dessert it was time to head out for our evening walk. After a stunning sunset we managed to find two tuatara which gave really good views, and then after two hours of walking trails and listening for kiwi in the very windy conditions, we found one right near the bunkhouse!  It gave great views for about 10 seconds, and then strutted off into the bushes!  Bed time to dream of kiwi!

Bird of the day– Little spotted kiwi x 3, tuatara x1, spotless crake x2, kokako x1, Stitchbird x1

Don't even need binoculars for that one!

Scanning the seas - what a spectacular place!

Mural on the toilets at Tiri

Dinner in style!

Beautiful sunset before kiwi spotting

Day three - pelagicing we will go

The skies were clear and the winds calm as we headed out towards Sandspit to start our Hauraki Gulf pelagic, after grabbing lunch of course!  We hopped onto the boat, Piers gave us the run down and safety briefing, and then we were off!  We pulled away from the wharf and a couple of minutes later a reef egret was spotted, so we slowed for everyone to get on to that as it flew past and then landed on the shore.  Out a little further we spotted South Island oystercatchers on the mudflats, and then a small pied cormorant colony.

We got out into the Kawau channel and on the search for little penguin. Surprisingly it took a while, but we then came across a couple of small groups rafted up on the water and good views were had by all.  Carrying on we started to see a few fluttering shearwaters, and then into the open ocean which was pretty darn flat!  There was a light south-westerly breeze and very little swell, so conditions were looking good…perhaps too good!

Small numbers of fluttering shearwaters came past, and then we started to see our first Buller’s shearwaters, and then the odd flesh-footed shearwater.  But we kept focus and carried on out to our first chumming spot.  The only loss of focus was for a couple of bottle-nosed dolphins that came past us, and then appeared to be having a little bit of hanky-panky…hey it is Valentine’s Day!

We arrived at a good location we have been to before and as we arrived we found a number of Cook’s petrels rafted up on the water.  The lack of wind was definitely having an effect on the birds, with many deciding it was too calm, and that sitting on the water was the best plan. We hauled up and started to chum, and after about 10 minutes we had three flesh-footed shearwaters at the back of the boat…hmmmm.  But after a bit of chumming we started to gather birds and slowly and surely started to see our other targets.  Rather surprisingly the first storm-petrel to turnup, after about 30 minutes was a New Zealand storm-petrel!  No complaints there, but still a bit strange.  The NZSP showed well and then a couple of white-faced storm-petrels arrived also.  Over the next couple of hours we had growing numbers of white-faced storm-petrels, flesh-footed, Buller’s and the odd fluttering shearwaters, and then our first black petrel.  Excellent!  We hung out and chummed away, with pretty reasonable numbers of birds based on the light conditions, and at least 5-6 New Zealand storm-petrels passing and at least 2 in view at once.

Around midday we then decided to head out towards the Mokohinau Islands, with the wind having dropped even further.  Glassy conditions almost and small schools of fish on the surface as we went, even a couple of penguins visible.  Approaching the Mokohinaus we had a small school of fish and then a single fairy prion flew in and landed nearby – nice one!  Approaching Maori Rocks we could see some small grey shapes on the side of the rock in the shade, and getting closer we could see they were grey ternlets.  In all an estimate of 35-40 birds was made, and we saw a few in flight and some coming to and from the rock.  Nice to see these little summer visitors.  About 100+ fairy prions were also roosting on the water nearby, most looking a little ragged from their breeding exploits.  We spent a little time cruising this very scenic area, before heading back towards Little Barrier, this time passing to the east of Fanal Island.  We stopped at Simpson’s rock and the conditions were so calm there were even white-faced storm-petrels sitting on the water!  There were also schools of fish feeding around the rock, and more white-faced storm-petrels and fairy prions feeding with them.  We decided to stop and start chumming, and in short order had several black petrels at the back of the boat.  Numbers of white-faced storm-petrels increased and then a shark was spotted – wow a nice big 7-9ft hammerhead!  It cruised past slowly and off and away from the boat.  A New Zealand storm-petrel was then spotted, and then another shark…hmmmm!? Different species!  This one was a quite large bronze whaler, probably 7-8ft long! Nice one…and then things got ridiculous as a blue shark [EDIT: we believe it was probably a mako] – also around 6-7ft came right in and swam through the slick a number of times giving really good views and actually nosing up to black petrels that were on the water.  Eash time the bird would be peering into the water and decide to make a break for it, with the shark really quite intent and almost lunging at the bird.

In the end we spent almost a couple of hours and had a number of NZ storm-petrels really close to the boat, and also white-faced dancing and feeding right beside the boat, with 5-6 black petrels around most of the time.  Late afternoon we decided we still had a way to go to get back, and so it was time to leave.  A lovely ride back towards Sandspit, with flat conditions and beautiful seas.  A lot of Cook’s petrels on the way back to keep us amused as well.

We did a quick swing by Kawau Island to look for weka, and found two very easily, and then headed back across to Sandspit, passing a big flock of feeding fluttering shearwaters with a few white-fronted terns and an Arctic skua (Parasitic jaeger).  Back on dry land we headed back to the accommodation for a nice dinner and well earned rest!

Little Barrier Island in the sunshine

A day to sit out and enjoy

There be grey ternlets on that rock!

Bird of the day– White-faced storm-petrel x5, New Zealand storm-petrel x3

Day two - hot terns and close takahe

Well another scorcher of a day!  Started cool in the morning as we rose a little late after the late night, and then breakfasted with the rosellas (for some of us).  We left the Motel and headed southwards, basically heading towards the estuary we had visited yesterday in the hope that a better tide would produce better results with fairy tern.

On the way we made a quick stop at a pond to look for Australasian little grebes and dabchick, but only found dabchick.  Although that can’t be bad – an endemic lifer for everyone.  Scope views and a nice look at this super little grebe.  We also had as near a Pacific black duck as you are going to see, and a small family party of scaup – although the male was not present.  Onwards and straight to the estuary, where the tide was lower and boom! Before we even set foot on the edge, an adult and a juvenile fairy tern were in sight!  The adult disappeared for a bit, off fishing, but we had the scope on the juvenile – one of only TWO fairy tern juveniles to fledge this season – what a disaster.  With just around 30 birds, this is not great news!  We scanned the area for other birds of interest, keeping the juvenile fairy tern in sight.  Godwit, red knot, black swan, NZ dotterel, variable oystercatcher all in view.  The adult fairy tern came back along the area feeding and then carrying a fish headed back to the juvenile and fed it! We scanned the area, and there on the mud were FOUR buff-banded rails – sweet.  A sometimes tricky bird to see, and we had a ‘flock of them’.  We continued to watch the adult fairy tern hover and patrol, and then it returned to the chick, fed it again, and then roosted beside it, nice one.

We enjoyed the moment and then decided it was half-past lunch time and headed back to the van and then to grab some lunch.  We ate it at a nearby pond where we had both New Zealand dabchick and Australasian little grebe in view together, each with a stripey juvenile bird. Great to see them side by side, even if there was a little aggression between the two.

We then carried on further south, heading to a predator free area, where we hoped to get our first chance at some forest birds.  And that was the case, but not before we had nice views at a brown teal, and another much closer buff-banded rail, very nice.  We wandered along a trail and found another small group of brown teal, with an absolute stonking male with green head, lovely white flank patch and all the characteristics.  Really nice to see as we often don’t get birds in this plumage.  We then heard an almost prehistoric sound, and ahead of us were two Takahe! Excellent, so we watched them for some time, enjoying seeing this truly amazing birds right in front of us.  In the forest everything else came together – bellbirds everywhere, tui, then a couple of pigeons in a Puriri tree, then fantail, whitehead, a brief saddleback before much better views later, and followed by kingfisher, and North Island robin.  Job done! We headed back to the van, and then on to Warkworth, where we checked into our accommodation and then for an awesome dinner!  Another great day…and a pelagic tomorrow!Bird of the day–

YES! Fairy tern patrolling to find food for the chick.

Check out those blue chickens!

The blue chickens in question

Face to face with a previously thought to be extinct species!

Bird of the day– still to come

Day One - KIWI!

The morning looked a bit grey, and it was cool, but as everyone met at the bus, the smiles were firmly in place.  Off to a good start.  We did the necessary intros and exchanged a little information, and then on to our first stop – Gannet Central!  As we arrived a shower of rain put on a spurt, and staying put in the van for three minutes waiting for the weather to pass certainly paid off.  The rain stopped, the sun came out, and the day steadily baked from that point on with a ripper of a 30 deg C day!

We walked out to watch the gannets doing their thing, and marvelled at the views. Good numbers of large almost fully grown chicks were in place, showing that this had been a very good breeding season. There were one or two with still a little down on them, but mostly they looked ready for action.  I suspect that in the next 1-2 weeks the colony will really empty out as youngsters take their first flight, a flight that will lead most of them towards Australian waters.

We enjoyed watching the adults swinging around in the light winds and doing circuits over the colony, before alighting beside their nest, mate or chick.  And of course all the associated noise and waggling of beaks and heads.  The white-fronted terns that had been present and breeding earlier in the season had cleared out, but a few could be seen in the distance out on the rock offshore, and variable oystercatchers were visible down on the rocks.

We decided to head back to the van and start our journey northwards.  We spotted a couple of silvereyes on the way, and then eyes peeled we departed, heading back through lovely rolling scenery to the east coast.  We put a few miles under our belts before arriving into a little town, and having our first bakery experience.  Well, it didn’t take much persuasion and the pies were being dragged out of the pie warmer! This group knows what’s up!  We then headed out to an estuary and sat in the sunshine enjoying the view out over the estuary.  Black-winged stilts, white-faced herons, variable oystercatchers and a New Zealand dotterel all in view.  Further out a flock of bar-tailed godwits, themselves thinking about heading back to the northern hemisphere where all of us will be heading back to at the end of this tour!  Also, some Caspian terns, white-fronted terns, and then…could it be…yes a single fairy tern.  Unfortunately, a long way off, but clearly a smaller more dainty tern off away from the group of white-fronted terns.

We explored and found a few more dotterel to get nice views of, more variable oystercatchers, and then thought we would check out another nearby location.  We didn’t find much new there, so as the tide was high, decided to head north and have another go tomorrow.  We basically made a b-line for Kerikeri, and arriving late afternoon checked into the accommodation and put our feet up for a bit.  Then of course time for dinner – a really nice first meal and a few vinos and beers – and then off out for our first mega-target! Northern brown kiwi!  We arrived at the location, got into order and had a quick chat, and then into it.  Shortly thereafter the first male called, and from that point until we left we must have had nearly 20 male kiwi calls, and at least 3 female calls!  Amazing.  We headed along a trail and heard what was probably two birds very close in the bushes, grunting and making noise, and then one bird – a male – let rip and called a bunch of times from only about 6m away!  We carried on down the track a little and then another male called just a bit further, so we headed its way just as a female responded.  We got everyone into shape and there was the male as it headed towards the female!  Excellent!  Pressure off we headed down the trail a bit further spotting a young morepork very close in a kanuka bush.  It sat and peered and twisted its head this way and that, then flew a short way.  We saw it a couple more times before we let it slip into the night.  A short way down the trail James said ‘there’s one here’ and there right beside the trail only a few metres away was a tiny little juvenile kiwi – perhaps just 3-4 months old!  We watched it in very dim light as it snuffled around and eventually made its way off, but how awesome was that!  We decided to head slowly back up the trail, and on the way had another four kiwi that gave pretty good views, and had a morepork not that far off give some wonderful calls.  So back near the van it was decided it was time for bed.  We had been incredibly lucky with six kiwi in total, a lot of calling and the morepork was a bonus!  A pretty amazing first day…

Bird of the day – to come when they have finished sleeping, but I suspect most will be Northern brown kiwi, perhaps a few for morepork!?

Ahhh, not a bad spot!

The gang!